Skirt Steak and Mango Tacos with Lambrusco (Cleto Chiarli)

My friend Bryce retired in Arizona at 50, which made me think that he had done well in business or had hit it big in Vegas. Bryce didn’t gamble so I assumed it was the former. He managed a sales force and his region was South America and Mexico. He called me in a frenzy when he knew I would be in the Southwest. “Sylvia Sterling. I need you in the worst way.”

“How many people and what are we serving?” I answered.

I heard Bryce breathe a sigh of relief. “I’ve been travelling to exotic places for 25 years Sylvia so you would think I would know about the cuisine. I know nada because I go from hotel to hotel and order whatever looks familiar from the room service menu. My former boss and his wife live here in Scottsdale and I’m having them over for a dinner. It’s a casual get together and with a couple of neighbors and you, it’ll be eight people. We’re eating out back by the pool. I was thinking tacos with a twist. Use your Sterling imagination. Mrs. Pfeiffer is allergic to eggs and shellfish so be sure to avoid that stuff.”

“You want me to cook and pair the meal with wine?”

“Please Sylvia. I asked Mrs. Pfeiffer when she was expecting once. She wasn’t pregnant and she’ll never forget. She’s a wine snob but you could serve her a $200 bottle and she’d have a complaint. You can expect her to bitch about whatever you serve but don’t take it personally.”

“You owe me Bryce. I’ll email you with the menu, shop and you pay me back.”

Bryce was one of my oldest friends whom I met one summer while lifeguarding. He was fun and a bit unconventional. I was surprised when he landed a corporate job but he was successful. I decided on skirt steak and mango tacos, which I’d serve with Lambrusco from Cleto Chiareli. It was an unconventional choice and serving to a wine snob made it an ironic selection.

Lambrusco is not only found in the convenience store tucked in between the wine coolers and the malt liquor. It was among the first alcoholic beverages sampled by numerous teens in the 70’s and 80’s. It’s red and slightly fizzy, which turns off many wine buffs but Lambrusco has grown up.

***

I showed up with a few pounds of meat and all the makings for my skirt steak tacos with mango.

“Welcome and let me help you with that. I don’t see the wine.” Bryce looked worried.

“I have it in a cooler and I’d appreciate it if you could grab it.”

“Sure. Must be white.”

“No, it’s red and don’t frown because I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised. Trust me.”

“I trust you Sylvia. The grill’s ready for you and I’ll be your prep cook; just tell me what to do.

I had four lbs. of skirt steak marinating in soy sauce, ginger and garlic. I bought the grass-fed meat from the butcher the previous day. A 24-hour bath was ideal but I had done it with only a few hours to spare and it was fine. My mango was purchased the day before also so I made sure it was ripe and ready to eat. I chose mangos just as if I would have purchased avocados. They give slightly when squeezed delicately. If I had gone shopping earlier, it would have been o.k. to pick ones that were a bit hard, as they would ripen on the kitchen counter.

“Hey, prep cook. I need these red onions, cilantro and jalapenos chopped together. You’ll want to throw on latex gloves so the peppers don’t burn your fingers. They aren’t all that hot and they shouldn’t send anyone to the ER. Be sure to remove the seeds and ribs.”

“Too bad. I like spice,” Bryce commented.

“I have a bottle of sauce that I brought back from a trip to Brazil. I’ll place it on the table and you’ll have your fire. When you’re finished throw everything in this ceramic dish and I’ll toss it with the cubed mango and lime juice.”

“Sounds fresh and delicious. I see you have the grill going.”

“I’m going to throw the steak on last because it only takes 5 minutes to cook. I’ll stuff it in fresh corn tortillas and top it with a sprinkling of Cojita cheese. I have cast iron skillet heating in which I’ll make my tortillas.”

“I see you have a tortilla press. Very authentic Sylvia or should I call you Senorita Sterling?” Bryce joked.

“It’s just masa and water with a little salt. You should put a couple of bottles of wine on ice next to the table. I have sparkling water for those who abstain from drinking alcohol.”

“Are you nervous about serving Lambrusco?”

“No, it’s your party,” I joked. “Seriously no. It’s an enjoyable sip and I think Lambrusco is due for a comeback.”

Bryce’s guests arrived just as I put out chips and salsa. There was beer and cocktails around the pool until dinnertime. Mrs. Pfeiffer was as Bryce had described her; it didn’t take long for her bitchy comments to begin.

“I’m confused Sylvia. Are you Bryce’s friend or hired help?”

“I’m both I guess. I have friends who turn to me when they’re planning a friendly get-together and I gladly oblige.”

“Oh, I’m just not accustomed to dining with the help.”

I was flabbergasted by the plushy woman’s comments and decided not to respond. Bryce and I would have a good laugh about it over tequila after everyone left. Everyone was seated at the festive table I set. I brought my ceramics collected from Mexico through the years, which were mismatched and colorful.

“I’m pouring a Lambrusco tonight. Before you judge, give it a try with the food,” I started by pouring first to Mamie, a neighbor because she was the most mature woman. She responded immediately after she took her first sip.

“The color is an intense red but the pink froth makes it a celebratory wine. I think it’s perfection in the Arizona heat.”

Jay Pfeiffer spoke next as he rammed a taco in his mouth. He put his hand up until he was done chewing. “I had my doubts. Chilled and red are not two words you’d expect in the same sentence. This Lambrusco is fruity and very well balanced.”

“I second that Jay. The aroma hit before I raised my glass. It’s similar to a prosecco but not as sweet and it pairs perfectly with the ginger.”

I was anxious to hear Mrs. Pfeiffer’s comment. “It’s a wine for the unrefined palette. Did it set you back $10 per bottle?”

“No $18 at a 10% discount because I bought a case.” I smiled.

The evening was a success because no one took themselves too seriously except Mrs. Pfeiffer. If I was making a point, it would not to judge a wine by it’s reputation. There are many pleasant surprises to be found in the world of wine. That goes for people too, with the exception of Mrs. Pfeiffer as she was like the reputation that proceeded her.